All posts by Andy Henderson

No landline telephone network after 2025

The Public Switched Telephone Network (PSTN) and ISDN lines will be switched off by 2025. You can see a statement from OpenReach here. Instead, telephone calls will be made via:

  • Broadband
  • The mobile phone network

Unfortunately, there's very little information to help you prepare for the change, and what there is comes from providers touting their own solutions. Here's what I've been able to glean so far...

No, the switch-off affects everything connected to the telephone network including:

  • Fax machines
  • Alarm systems
  • Aid call systems

Simple answer: yes.

However, it's unclear how providers will handle the change. BT, for example, has nothing I can find on its site and continues to sell landline phones without any warning.

It does sell Voice Over IP (VOIP) - internet phones - but, for the time being, they are aimed at businesses.

There's no indication of how new voice services will be charged. Given the way internet phones work, you'll be able to choose from a huge range of different providers offering their own blend of services - and costs. So there's a fair chance you'll want to change provider. My best guess is that you'll be able to take your number with you to a different provider - like you can with mobile phones - but I don't see a guarantee of that.

Simple answer: yes.

I expect there will be products that allow you to:

  • connect your phone(s) to a plug that works like the PSTN
  • replace your DECT hub

Either way, the new box of tricks will connect your phone(s) to the new phone network via broadband or the mobile phone network.

However, you might not benefit from the full range of services that will be offered by the new, digital phone network.


Many people already use mobile phones instead of landlines. And I expect you will be able to make and receive calls from your landline number using a mobile phone.

Also, the new service will be digital and one of the benefits it brings is that you'll be able to make and receive calls on a range of devices I expect these will include:

  • PC's and laptops
  • Smart speakers - such as Amazon Alexa and Google Home (or Nest or whatever they call it this week)
  • Video calling devices - look out for enhancements to Amazon Show, for example
  • Smart TVs
  • Game consoles

If your current phones work OK and you've no good reason to change, stick with what you have, wait and see.

You'll no doubt get offers from your landline provider eventually - but you might be able to get a cheaper/better service by shopping around.

For the time being, if your phone uses rechargeable batteries and they don't keep a charge, consider extending their life by replacing the batteries - most phones allow you to do that.

If you rely on, or make heavy use of, other equipment that connects to the phone line:

  • Consider, alternative technologies. For example there are other ways to transfer images besides fax.
  • Contact your alarm or aid call providers and ask what they're planning - again, it might not be best to accept their first offers.

Unless absolutely necessary, I suggest you shouldn't:

  • Invest heavily in any device that requires a phone line.
  • Sign a long-term contract for any service that requires a phone line.
  • Buy an internet phone now - as far as I can see devices on the market are either:
    • Business-oriented (i.e over-complex and expensive)
    • Tied to specific services
    • Or both

Walking routes

The following pages contain maps of some of the walks done by the Walking group since September 2015. You'll see a button to show the route towards the bottom of each linked page. You will also see a button to download a 'GPX' and/or 'KMZ' file that you can use with:

  • a GPS device
  • a smart phone with a suitable app (such as Osmand)
  • a PC with suitable software (such as Google Earth)
  • a web site that can work with route files (such as GPS Visualizer)

You can use the maps to plan another walk for the Walking group, or to walk the route yourself.

Available maps:

I wish to register a complaint

The following Transcript of a letter between two Hellyers dated 17th July 1833. Posted Chichester to South Hayling was an item of Hayling Postal History shown at a recent meeting of the Hayling Island U3A Collectors Group:

Mr Hellyer, you said in your letter you wished me to give up my author about your servant and Charlotte but that I shall not do as I should be very sorry to cause you to be ill friends with anyone on my account but could not help telling your Brother that you might just know what was talked of at Hayling respecting the gin it was your brother said it was watered I have one bottle left if you wish to have it returned I will send it by Mr Gadd's cart next time it is just as I received it from you. I have got six pounds of Mr Gadd that I might pay my rent that I may keep a place to put my head in for you have sent me neither provision or money how different would have been my feelings for you if you had been left thus destitute and what enjoyment could I have had in a dinner party of thirty five and you thus situated how little do I think I have deserved such cruel treatment I am now waiting your determination of what you mean to do for me as something must be settled on or I must take other means you said to Mr Davey I was acquainted with Mr & Mrs Robt Woodman I have never spoken to either of them since I left east Wittering Mr Woodman was at Mr Newmans shop one day and asked if I was there and how I was and thank God I am not quite forgotten among my old friends as many make very kind enquiries after me

I remain your Well Wisher
E Hellyer

Basic bike maintenance

These are some notes from my recent bike maintenance workshop we conducted in the Cycling group. I've also added some links to illustrative articles and videos. Note that I am not, by any means, an expert. Most of my knowledge comes from:

  • Advice picked up while riding with Portsmouth CTC
  • Internet searches (especially YouTube)
  • Trial and error

The internet is a great resource for finding out how to tackle some bike maintenance. Searching for a specific component often finds videos showing you exactly what to do.

I used a bike stand for the workshop as it makes it easier to get to bits on the bike. Alternatives are to:

  • Suspend the bike from a beam, or similar
  • Use something to prop the bike with the back wheel off the ground (so you can turn the cranks)

Click any of these headings for more information...

Use a bucket of water - as hot as you can manage. Add some shampoo - I use waxless car shampoo to avoid contaminating my disk brakes. Ordinary detergents contain salt, so not such a good idea.

Use a sponge or similar to wash the bike starting at the top and working down to the bottom.

I use a mix of cloths, old brushes and old toothbrushes to get to hard-to-reach bits.

It helps to remove the wheels and clean them separately (see below).

I have some Isopropyl alcohol for removing grease.

A small flat-bladed screwdriver is good for cleaning jockey wheels.

Make sure to dry your chain when you've finished to avoid rust and stuck links.

You can wax painted parts - I don't.

Cleaning is a good opportunity to spot issues with the bike.

3-in-1 oil is not good for chains as it is too light. Most of what you apply ends up on the floor. WD40 (and similar) is far too light and useless for lubricating chains. Instead, use chain 'lube', one of:

  1. Dry lube. Small particles of wax suspended in a carrier liquid. After application the liquid evaporates leaving the wax particles to do the lubrication. Best applied the day before you need to ride. Dry lube leaves the chain looking clean and the chain doesn't pick up as much dirt. However, it washes off easily so has to be applied more often and certainly after cycling in heavy rain.
  2. Wet lube. Viscous oil that sticks well to the chain so does better in wet weather. Attracts dirt, however. After application turn the cranks to work the oil into the chain then use a rag to wipe off as much oil as possible (the useful oil is between the plates of the links and can't be wiped off).

I apply oil to individual bushings (the axles in the chain). Some people run the nozzle along the chain while turning the cranks but that's wasteful in oil.

You can clean the chain on the bike. I use a rag soaked in WD40 and run the chain through it (prevents WD40 getting onto brake surfaces). You can also use chain cleaners that attach to the chain but they are expensive and wasteful in cleaning fluid. Once the cleaning fluid has evaporated, re-lube.

It is easier to deep clean the chain off the bike. Remove the chain (see on). I use WD40 and a rag to remove the worst of the grease. I then immerse the chain in white spirit (pickle jars work well) and swirl the chain around occasionally. Leave as long as practical then remove from the white spirit and allow chain time to dry before refitting and re-lubing.

Chains are said to 'stretch'. In fact the bushings wear down so the chain gets longer. Chain stretch will, over time:

  • Damage front and rear cogs
  • Cause the chain to slip on the cogs
  • Result in a broken chain

Best to replace a chain as soon as stretch becomes significant. That protects the rear cassette which will last three chains, or so. Waiting until the chain starts slipping usually means having to replace the rear cassette at the same time.

Detect chain stretch with:

  • Simple chain gauge. £2-3 on eBay. Two sides, When the first side fits flat against the chain the chain is close to needing replacement. When the second side fits flat against the chain it needs replacement.
  • Use a 12 inch ruler. Chains are spaced one inch apart. When the chain has stretched more than 1/8th inch it needs replacement.

This video shows different methods to detect chain stretch:

Two broad types of brake:

  • Rim brakes that work by gripping the rim of the wheel
  • Disk brakes that work by gripping a rotor attached to the wheel's hub

Pads have grooves in them. Replace before wear removes the grooves.

To replace, remove the wheel (see on). Two main types of rim brakes:

  • Racing bikes use calipers that fit closely around the wheel. The pads are held in place by a small screw. The pads slide out of the caliper towards the rear of the bike. They can be stiff. Slide the new pads in and secure with the provided screw. Make sure to re-engage the cam after refitting the wheel so the brakes work OK.
  • Other pads come as pad/holder/bolt/nut assemblies together with a range of spacers. Undo the nut and remove the old pad keeping a note of which spacers go where and which way around. Replace with the new pad making sure the spacers are in the same places. Makes sense to replace one pad at a time so you always have a correctly fitted pad to use as a reference.

Test your brakes after refitting. Make sure the pads are not close to touching the tyre surface. If they touch they will wear the tyre quickly resulting in a blow-out.

Pads are secured by a small bolt that passes through the body of the brake and the pads, making sure they stay in the right place. Usually a fiddly retaining clip makes sure the bolt cannot fall out. Remove the retaining clip and bolt.

Pads slide out from the top or bottom. Two pads held in place by a retaining spring (and sometimes magnets). Pads need replacing if they are worn close to the retaining spring.

Do not touch your brakes while working on the pads. You might force the pistons out and cause the hydraulic fluid to leak. Use a pad spacer if you are at all concerned you might operate the brake by mistake.

Replacement pads should come with replacement retaining spring, bolt and retaining clip. Dispose of the old ones. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to push the pistons back into their housing. Replace the pads in the opposite direction they came out (if you're struggling to get them in you might not have pushed the pistons in far enough). Fit the bolt through the pads and (if possible) the retaining clip.

Once fitted, it is essential to bed the new pads in. You do that by riding the bike and doing some gentle braking, gradually increasing speed and strength of braking. Ideally finish with some downhill braking. It's tedious but necessary to reduce the risk of brake squeal and glazing the surface of the pad (which renders them useless).

Important to inspect tyres regularly. Flints, in particular, can get embedded into tyres and will act like little axes and will eventually get through the tyre and cause a puncture. Also look for evidence of wear such as:

  • Cracking
  • Bare patches showing underlying material
  • Flattening of tyres that have little or no tread

Frequent punturing is a cue to replace the tyre.

Puncture resistant tyres are a good investment in our area. Folding (as opposed to beaded) tyres are a little more expensive but they are easier to get on and off, lighter and easier to pack as standbys when touring.

Tyre sealants that go into the inner tube and plug small punctures can be effective (and essential for tubeless tyres), but messy and no protection against larger punctures. I don't use them.

Check pressures regularly (I check after every three rides, or so). Correct pressure range is shown on the side of the tyre. Important to use a pump with a gauge. Low pressure (almost inevitable if you use a pump without a gauge) increases the risk of punctures.

The pressure you decide to use is a preference. Using a lower pressure in the range increases comfort, using a higher pressure reduces the work needed to cycle.

Escaping air when you remove your pump is normal and the pump (rather than the tyre) depressurises. Similarly, pressure in the tyre will drop when you attach a pump as the pressure between pump and tyre equalises. Do not expect refitting a pump to a tyre you just inflated to show the same pressure.

This video explains how to inflate tyres fitted with the two common types of valve:

  1. The schrader valve
  2. The presta valve

The video helps you find out which you have.

Note that to add air to a pressurised tyre using a presta valve, you need to exert short sharp pressure to open the valve (usually with an audible snap).

You'll need to remove your bike's wheels to fix a puncture or to clean your bike thoroughly.

This video is a good explanation of how to remove and replace the back wheel from a bike equipped with 'V' brakes. The chances are your bike will have that kind of brake.

Removing and replacing the front wheel is the same as the back except that you don't have the hassle of disentangling the chain from the gears.

This video is a good explanation of how to remove and replace the wheels from a bike equipped with caliper brakes. If you have a road/race bike, there's a good chance this is your type of brake.

This video is a good explanation of how to remove and replace the front wheel from a bike equipped with disc brakes.

Take a look at one of the above two videos to see how to get your rear wheel disengaged/engaged with your gears.

Bikes with disk brakes sometimes use a through axle (no slot for the wheel to come out of the forks) in which case you will need to remove the skewer completely before you can separate the fork from the wheel.

If you have a puncture on the road, consider safety first. Make sure anyone behind you knows you have to stop. Look for a way to repair the puncture off the road. Perhaps a pavement or a gate entrance. Make sure everyone with you gets off the road too.

Having said that, you need to stop as soon as you can safely. Riding on a flat tyre can wreck the inner tube.

Replacing the inner tube is faster and more reliable than a repair. In any case, a major puncture can't be repaired, so it's a good idea to carry one or two replacement tubes with you. I also carry self-adhesive patches in case of multiple punctures. You'll also need to carry some tools:

  • Good tyre levers – the ones you get in cheap kits can be too bendy, making them useless; hard plastic are easier on rims than metal ones
  • Pump – preferably one with a pressure gauge
  • Self-adhesive patches or a puncture repair kit
  • Something with a sharp point to remove whatever caused the puncture from your tyre
  • A small biro is useful for marking a puncture

It's a good idea to practice puncture repair at home before you need to do it out on the road.

Once you are safe, to repair a puncture, follow these steps:

  1. Remove your wheel (se above).
  2. Make a note of the position of the valve in relation to the tyre (not the wheel). That will help you find the cause of the puncture later on.
  3. Use tyre levers (see the videos below) to remove the tyre.
  4. Remove the inner tube. You might have to unscrew the collar from the valve before you can remove it from the rim. You will need to remember which way round the inner tube came out of the tyre, or you can mark which way round it was with a biro.
  5. Add some air to the inner tube and use your hand or your lips feel around the tyre to find the puncture. Note you might have two punctures at the same place - one at the outside of the tube and one at the inside.
  6. If possible, mark position of the puncture with a biro - that makes it easier to find it again when it comes to placing the patch.
  7. Place the valve next to the tyre in the position where it was when you removed it, with the inner tube the same way round as when you removed it.
  8. Look for what caused the puncture at the place in the tyre corresponding to the puncture location. The sharp is probably embedded in the tyre. If you fail to find it, you risk a second puncture if it's left in the tyre. Feel round the inside of the tyre carcass for a thorn. Look for a flint or piece of glass that might be deeply embedded in the tread of the tyre. Remove the offending article with a sharp point.
  9. Replace or patch the inner tube. See the videos below for examples of patching an inner tube with self-adhesive patches or patches you have to glue on.
  10. Add just enough air to the inner tube to give it some shape.
  11. With one side of the tyre fitted to the wheel, fit the valve into the rim. Make sure the valve is in straight. If appropriate, make sure the tyre is fitted right way around (look for an arrow on the tyre indicating forward rotation). Line the valve up with an obvious point in the tyre (the first character of the maker's name, for example) - so it's easier to find the next puncture. Fit the tube inside the tyre.
  12. Fit the other side of the tyre over the rim - this can be difficult. You will usually get to the last six inches, or so and find that there's not enough slack to fit the rest of the tyre. Work around the section of the tyre that you have fitted squeezing inwards to force the tyre into the deeper part of the rim (you might need to deflate your inner tube). You should then be able to fit the rest of the tyre. Take care not to pinch the inner tube, especially if you have to use a tyre lever.
  13. Screw the collar to the valve if it has one.
  14. Reinflate the inner tube to a suitable pressure, checking as you go that the inner tube is not escaping from the tyre.
  15. Replace your wheel (see above). Job done!

This video demonstrates how to repair a puncture using a self-adhesive patch (my preferred method - patches are simpler and less fussy than glue-on patches):

This video demonstrates how to repair a puncture using glue-on patches. The visual references to the Monty Python 'Bicycle Repair Man' sketch date the video - or perhaps the presenters - but the method hasn't changed:

Note that neither video properly shows you how to find what caused your puncture.

To remove a chain from your bike you first have to 'break' it. That means undoing one of the links.

If you have a special link in your chain, you can break it there, sometimes without tools. There's an article discussing different types of link here. Otherwise you will have to use a chain breaking tool which forces one of the pins securing each link out of the chain.

This video shows the different types of link and how to use a chain breaking tool. Note, however, it really isn't necessary to buy special pliers. The article about links describes some alternative methods to undo a difficult link.

You will first need to buy a replacement chain. Chains are interchangeable. You don't need to match the manufacturer of your gears, provided you choose:

  • The right 'speed' - this refers to the number of gears on your back wheel. Modern bikes are usually 10 or 11 speed.
  • The right length. It's unlikely you'll find one exactly the right length. Instead make sure it's longer than you need (by counting links) so you can cut it to the right size.

Costlier is not necessarily better.

I suggest buying a chain that comes with a reusable link. Specifically, I advocate Wippermann chains that come with their connex link which can be removed and reused easily without tools.

Before replacing a chain, make a note (and perhaps take a photo or two) of how the chain winds around your bike's rear wheels. Then:

  1. Put your gears into the smallest rings front and back (to make it easier to get the chain back on later).
  2. Break the old chain.
  3. Run your new chain alongside the old one to determine how many links you need to remove from your new chain. To use a link, both ends will need to be narrow (if you used a chain breaking tool on your old link it will be one link longer) see video below for an illustration. Check you have the right length carefully - if you are unsure how the link on your new chain will work, consider a trial run before the next step.
  4. Use a chain breaking tool to remove excess links from your new chain.
  5. Fit the new chain to your bike making sure it follows the same path as the old one. It should go around the smallest cogs at the back. For the time being don't fit it to the front cogs but lay it alongside the smallest ring. If the chain has manufacturer's markings they should be on the outside of the bike.
  6. Secure the chain with the supplied link.
  7. Pull the bottom of the rear derailleur towards the font of the bike to loosen the chain and put it onto the smallest front ring.
  8. Turn the cranks to make sure the chain is running freely.
  9. Lube the new chain. Some people say that step is unnecessary because the chain comes already lubed; I'm unconvinced, I think it comes with a coating to protect its appearance, but it doesn't look like lube to me. It doesn't do any harm to be sure.

This video shows how to replace a chain:

Arguably an advanced topic because it needs specific tools (a cassette removal tool and a chain whip) but - if you have those tools - the job is really easy and you can save a lot of money:

  • Using a hub at replacement prices
  • Avoiding labour costs and transport costs

This video provides some hints for detecting chain wear:

This video shows how to replace a cassette:

Some notes:

  • It's usual when changing a cassette to change the chain at the same time; a worn chain is a cue to consider cassette replacement (some people always replace their cassettes with every worn chain - seems excessive to me)
  • When choosing a new cassette, you must match the 'speed' (i.e. the number of gears of the old cassette)
  • You might be able to fit a cassette with a larger number of cogs in its biggest gear. That will give you easier hill-climbing. However, each type of gear has its limits - exceed them and your bike will not change gear correctly. You'll need to check the specs of your specific gears online. You will probably need to replace your chain with a longer one too. Safest is to fit one the same as you are replacing or (if you are unsure about limits, use a bike shop, explaining what you want to do).
  • Shimano and SRAM cassettes are interchangeable.
  • When you remove your old cassette from the hub do one of the following to ensure you know how to reassemble the new cassette (in case you let it fall apart by mistake):
    • Keep the cassette intact (don't let it separate into separate bits) - perhaps use string or a cable tie to keep the bits together in sequence; or
    • Remove each element (sprockets and spacers) separately and lay them out in the order you remove them.
  • If you are fitting a 10 speed cassette onto a wheel that takes 10 or 11 speed, you will find there is an extra spacer that doesn't come with your new cassette - you'll need to refit that spacer before replacing your cassette.

Items held by the Walking Group

The following are available to walk leaders and those planning new walks:

Health & Safety:

  • First aid pack
  • Sling & safety pins
  • 5 'Life' emergency blankets, sealed
  • Around 55 emergency Contact Cards (U3A design)
  • Emergency Contact Book (superseded by the Group contacts service)
  • HiVis Waistcoat

Maps, OS Series Pathfinder 1:25,000 (1976/84):

  • Winchester (South)
  • Portsmouth & Havant
  • Horndean
  • Petersfield & East Meon
  • Chichester & Bognor Regis
  • Cocking & Sutton
  • Midhurst & Petworth
  • Pulborough & Steyning

Maps, OS Series Pathfinder 1:25,000 (1987/91)

  • Alton & Four Marks
  • Petersfield & Meon Valley
  • Horndean
  • Portsmouth & Havant
  • Chichester & Bognor Regis
  • Selsey Bill

The above are small sheets - good for planning.

Footpath Map, Hayling, Havant, & Thorney.

Guide Books:

  • "Walks for All and Themes to Boot"
  • "Country Pub Walks"
  • "Walks Around Sidlesham"
  • "Ten Walks - Winchester"
  • "Country Walks in Horndean"
  • "Walks Around West Meon & Warnford"
  • "Hambledon Guide & Walks"
  • "12 Walks Near Chichester"
  • "5 Short Walks - East Meon"
  • "Circular Walks on Hayling Island"
  • "Buriton - Some Walks Through Time"
  • "Gales Pub Five Circular Walks"
  • AA: "50 Walks in Sussex"
  • NT: "Stroll the South Downs"
  • "Waterside Walks in Sussex"
  • "Waterside Walks in Hampshire"
  • "Along & Around the Wayfarers Walk"

Chichester Harbour Conservancy:

  • "Series-1"; #1 to #9, mostly long
  • "Series-2"; #1 to #10, mostly short

Walk Leaflets:

  • Emsworth to Langstone
  • Manor Farm & Country Park
  • "Literary Walks in East Hampshire - Buriton"
  • ditto - Edward Thomas"
  • "Rother Valley -Selborne & Empshott"
  • "Footpaths & Bridleways in Rowlands Castle"
  • "Downs Link Route Map - Guilford to Shoreham"
  • "Queen Elizabeth Country Park"
  • "Welcome to Harting Down"
  • "Chalk Stones"
  • "A Farming Walk", (Westbourne)
  • "Langstone Harbour, Guide & Waterside Walk
  • "Chichester Walls Walk"
  • "5 Walks on Hayling Island"
  • "Staunton Way - 6 Walks"
  • "Walk 7 - Northney Explorer"
  • "Walk 10 - Chidham Circular"

Ordnance Survey Guides:

  • What to take in a daypack
  • Map reading
  • Navigating using the Sun. Moon, & stars

Illustrated Walk Diary, 2006 (Sue Humphrey)

North Hayling poorhouse

This is an article published in the Spring 2018 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter....

It is interesting that Hayling once had a “Poorhouse” and that this was situated in North Hayling rather than in the south of the Island. It was built on a piece of land in what is St. Peter’s Road today. An Article in the Portsmouth Evening News dated 22nd October 1932 states that it was then a picturesque row of cottages known as North Terrace. In the 18th century the Parish of North Hayling had considerably more inhabitants than South Hayling. (A census taken in 1788 gave the population as being considerably the larger of the two parishes) so it is not surprising that the Poorhouse was built here.

The Poorhouse was a place where those who were unable to support themselves were offered accommodation and employment by their local parish. Life “in the workhouse” was intended to be harsh to ensure that only the truly destitute would apply. The Parish Council, who administered the Poorhouse, would use the free labour of inmates on tasks such as breaking stones, road mending, picking oakum and crushing bones to produce fertilizer. Inmates were required to surrender their clothes when they entered and wear standard workhouse uniforms.

The parish records for North Hayling exist from 1783, previous records having been lost. The Poorhouse was administered by the North Hayling Parish Council with a monthly meeting of ratepayers being held, its accounts and minutes kept by the churchwarden and two overseers, verified twice a year by two Justices of the Peace. Levying a Poor Rate on all local inhabitants raised income.

The minutes tell us that in 1787 the old almshouse was falling down and John Rogers (then the Church Warden) raised loans and was granted land to build a new Poor house. The house was thatched and had attached to it a hog pen and a furze-house, both also thatched. In his book “The King holds Hayling”, F.G.S. Thomas tells us that “Wm. Palmer was master at 6 shillings a week, then came Mrs. Warren at about 4 shillings a week and Mr. Parr taught the children at two shillings and sixpence a week.” He also tells us that “in 1801, when all the poorhouses in the country were full and overflowing Hayling North spent £60 a month on its poor.” This was the year of the first official National Census and the parish of North Hayling was reckoned to have 254 residents. Of these only 25 were ratepayers and, as Thomas states, “it almost passes belief that they should have had to find £740 for their poor”. 1801 was a disastrous year throughout the South of England because of a series of crop failures.

In the year 1834, when parish workhouses were superseded by Union Workhouses, the Havant Board of Guardians took over the duties formerly carried out by the parish of North Hayling. The Poor of Hayling then became the responsibility of Havant Borough Council and were then all accommodated in the Havant Workhouse.

This is a very short introduction to our former Poorhouse. Those interested in finding out more are directed towards an article published in the Portsmouth Evening News – 22 October 1932 and reproduced in “A Collection of Articles on Hayling Island Volume 2. (Havant History Booklet No.47) produced by The Spring. Also “The King holds Hayling” by F.G.S. Thomas, chapters 13 and 14 “The Poor we had with us” and “Save the Parish Harmless”. Both these sources provide fascinating glimpses into the life of the poor and the ways in which they were “cared for” in the 18th and early 19th centuries. This article relies heavily on both these sources for information

Sue Humphrey

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

Whenever you see a container on the back of a lorry, have you ever wondered whether it has come from some exotic place around the world, what is inside it and what is its destination? Probably not, but the answers can all be found in a master programme that controls every aspect of a containers journey from its origin through to the final delivery point. The detail is astounding from the allocation of a specific container, to which lorry is to bring it to a dock, the position on the dock, its location on a ship, possibly the transfer to another ship, the order of unloading to a specific location and finally the lorry to take it to the end customer. When one considers the millions of containers on the move, the thousands of container ships sailing the seas and the multitude of ports around the world the enormity of the software programme that controls the operation can only be imagined. But this was the experience of Dinos Theophanous who gave a fascinating talk on the subject in September.

In November Maurice Winn gave us a detailed account of how the new container terminal on the Thames was designed and constructed from a green field site to a complex operational system.

On a different scale, but no less challenging, Bryan Bowen in October talked about the complexities of the Microsoft Access programme and how it has been applied to the Hayling Island U3A membership. It is this programme that ensures that you receive your local and national newsletters/magazines and allows us to claim back income taxes through gift aid.

Every meeting of the Science and Technology group is advertised at the monthly meeting and is open to all for a small nominal fee towards the cost of hiring the hall.

Paul Chapman

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

This year we have said goodbye to two members, Jean & Sheila and welcomed Jennifer & Rhoda. They organised a talk on Romsey followed by a visit there and a conducted tour of the Cathedral.

The past twelve months have produced talks by Bryan, on Local Airfields, by Maura on the litigious William Padwick - once Hayling's Lord of Manor.

Andrea organised a trip in July to the Bignor Roman Villa, set in a very attractive valley in the South Downs. Rediscovered in 1811, what started as a simple farmstead grew over the centuries to a villa of 65 rooms. Lunch was taken locally at the Squire and Horse at Bury.

LH1The year started with a conducted tour of the Cathedral in Chichester, organised by Jan, and in April Thelma & Judy led a walk around Old Bedhampton, including St Thomas Church, & the Grade II, crenelated Elms House where we took tea in the Waterloo Room, decorated for a visit by the Duke of Wellington.

Maura did us proud again by organising a trip & tour of the Hambledon Vineyard. Following a pleasant wine tasting, details are sketchy ...

In January we will plan activities for 2018 - this will include a talk about the history of the Hayling Golf Club by Viv Fitch, their archivist.

Andrea Burton

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

Owing to the upheavals of moving from a house into a flat, and the subsequent building works, several meetings were cancelled in recent months; this has not had the impact on members which might be expected. Our principal activity is addressing problems or topics brought up by the members. However problems are in decline, partly because software and hardware suppliers are improving the usability of their products and partly because people, especially those in the younger generation, are becoming more computer literate. So U3A members usually have assistance fairly close at hand or at least on the end of a telephone or email. If this trend continues I can see this group morphing into the "Computers and Current Affairs Group".

So although in the last year, members have had to convert (or been converted!) to Windows 10, the problems have not been so many as expected. Even emails, though still susceptible to annoying changes by suppliers, are getting more straightforward. We have room for new members and we don't have much discussion on very technical matters. We are even gaining experience on the use of tablets, though this is an area where suppliers should publicise the capabilities of their products.

Contact me if you are interested.

Peter Hill

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

MusicForFunThis group continues to meet 2 weekly in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere.

We play various styles of music and songs on a variety of instruments. We tend to play mostly Celtic folk tunes but also some songs, some jazz and have been adding popular classical pieces to our repertoire.

In the summer we were asked to play for a special charity raising event by the Hayling Bowls Group at the community centre. As it was wet, the indoor mats were put out and we were all invited to join in. For some of us it was our first try at bowls.

We also had a display of 'in house' Morris men dancing and then were invited to join in with some folk dancing. Much fun and laughter was had! We played a 20 minute spot with music and songs. As Sue Humphrey had arranged for song sheets to be distributed the audience was able to join in with us...which they did with gusto. The afternoon included a wonderful BBQ bravely manned outside under shelters, in the rain!

We have recently welcomed a new player to the group and he has settled in well.

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

We are now nearly 2 years old and so you can work out how many books we have made our way through!

Just in the way these things happen, over the past year our booklist has in a rather serendipitous way focussed on books about women (or maybe it was just because this was what the library had available for us! )

We followed the career of the actress Judi Dench, now known as a ‘National Treasure’. Then we read Poisonwood Bible by B Kingsolver, the fictitious yet harrowing trials and tribulations of the wife and daughters of an evangelical Baptist missionary from the USA in the Belgian Congo during the civil uprisings of 1959. This was followed by Singled Out by V Nicholson, which followed the lives of several women who had no option but to remain single after the loss of their menfolk in the First World War. The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie by Muriel Sparke was a novel on a similar theme. Some of you may have seen Maggie Smith’s wonderful portrayal of her in the movie.

Still looking at books about women, Too Many Mothers by the actress Roberta Taylor was about early life in a big East End extended family headed by a wonderful matriarch of a grandmother. Then we had Still Alice by Lisa Genova, this was about Alice’s gradual and gruelling decline into Alzheimer's disease. Good Wives? was another of the books about how women manage to adapt to their circumstances. Margaret Forster took as her premise the ‘to obey’ that women, but not men, used to have to promise in the marriage ceremony. She contrasted the very different experiences of Mary Livingstone, wife of David, Fanny Stevenson, wife of Robert Louis, and Jenny Lee, wife of Aneurin Bevan with her own opinions about 'obeying' and an account of her own marriage to Hunter Davies.

One more, the Taming of the Queen, by Philippa Gregory is the story of Katherine Parr, the sixth wife of Henry V111. A very interesting book about the plots and intrigue in the court as 'Kateryn' strives to survive and keep her head whilst others around her are losing theirs.

I can’t finish though without mentioning Ruby Wax's Sane New World and her journey in her metamorphose from comedienne and actress to therapist and lecturer on Mindfulness. Maybe all of these books could be looked at through Ms Wax’s mindfulness filter, but I think not!

Of course we have actually managed to read books on other topics, my all-time favourite is the wonderful word pictures in A Kestrel for a Knave by Barry Hines. I guess the group members would all be able to name their favourites. I do thank them for their contributions to the list, for the richness and variety that I have enjoyed despite or even because of the pre-eminence of women in our reading. I thank the group too for their understanding that it is not always possible to include individual’s choices as we are dependent on the availability of the books from Hampshire Library Services.

Finally, this month we are reading about Mr Selfridge, the story of how he founded his shop in Oxford Street, so maybe that is signs of things to come...

Pat Bailey

Group report

This is an article published in the Winter 2017 edition of the Hayling Island U3A newsletter...

We have not managed many visits in the last year because there has been a lack of opportunity to visit plays we want to see. Even the resurgence of the New Theatre Royal has not improved matters as their drama programme consists mainly of single night experimental theatre – not to our taste. The summer tends to have a dearth of productions and we enter the panto season next month.

We have made regular visits to see the National Theatre's productions, beamed into the Odeon at Port Solent, most recently Hamlet with Benedict Cumberbatch. At our other favourite venue, the "Spring" at Havant, which hosts two excellent amateur drama companies, our most memorable visit was to see a play about a rest home where the inhabitants were struggling to escape the floods, forgotten by the authorities. Some excellent performances from a touring group of professions.

Peter Hill